First of all some information up front. The hike we did is challenging. We recommend to spend couple of days at high altitude > 3500 m.

Bring your own emergency kit. Eat healthy and drink a lot. Do some physical exercise before. Don't be scared. As your mindset has an influence on your actual physical capacities. Go slowly and take your time. If you need to rest on the way, rest. It is fun though, breathtaking, amazing, stunning and worth all the pain!

As mentioned above, we did this hike without a guide. This means we carried all our gear on our backs. .  This includes tent, cooker, sleeping bag, mat, cloths, food, water, emergency kit (antibiotics, emergency blanket, etc.) and cloths. By doing so we had the freedom to camp anywhere and walk at our own pace. But it also means that you have to carry additional weight. And we also had no booked campsite in advance where people cooked for us or where we could take some drinks. But if this is what you are actually looking for, you don’t need to read this report. Rather contact a travel agency. If you need gear, check out "El Baratillo" in Cusco on Saturdays. They have a lot of second hand outdoor cloths, shoes, sleeping bags and all in very good conditions. But be careful, some things are fake. In terms of altitude and fittness, you can do it if you are healthy and do regularly some kind of sport. If not, your will definitely feel your own limits and to be honest this is actually what you are looking for. We didn’t do much hiking before and we made it. Of course with tired and sored muscles, cramps, back pain, bladders, etc...keep in mind that reaching our limits, mentally and physically, helps us to grow.

In general this trek is very well developed and you can’t get lost as there are many other hikers and locals on the way. Thus you can always ask for the way. On the one hand, doing this trek on your own will save you some money and helps you to grow. What do you want more. The other option would be spending more money and being pampered. The highest point of the trek ist 4630 meters above sea level. For many people who do this trek this is the highest the have ever been. Roughly daily walking distances are 20 km. 

The first night before we started trekking we stayed on night in Mollepata (2900) in a small Hostal/ Guesthouse CASONA MOLLEPATA . A old couple is running it. The prices for a double room with shared bathroom was 23 $ and the place was very clean. Unfortunately there was no wifi and the rooster was waking us up at 03:30 am. And the Senhora from the place asked us for "tips" as we were just about to leave, which has never happend to me before. A awkward 10 seconds passed as I gave her 4 Soles and told here about the not functioning wifi. She ignored this and said, but you were allowed to use the kitchen. Honestly I felt a bit overrun by the situation for a few moments. 

<<DAY 1>>

PURE NATURE

At the plaza in Mollepata we could catch a ride for 20 S. per person to our start of the trek CHALLACANCHA (3600). From there we hiked a bit up and then along a small concrete waterway (CANAL INCA, 3700). Which they probably had built to guide the water to the villages. From there we were hiking into the valley slightly uphill to SORAYPAMPA (3912). To get there took us about 1,5 h and the guy who took us up just said that we were "rapido". We also met another guy who was working with him. He said: "You can leave your bags at my place over there if you want to hike up to the lagoon (HUMANTAY, 4200)". We were not sure because we wanted to cook up there. Thus we carried everything up there. If we would do it again we would leave our heavy bags somewhere in SORAYPAMPA. We had to learn the hard way. It took us almost 2 h to make the 300 meters of altitude. Most people with day packs do it in 1 h. We had to stop a few times on the way because we felt the thin air and with our bags even more.

And then we had lunch in front of this...

After our rice, lentil, pea soupy thingy we we tired and hiked back down to SORAYPAMPA and started hiking further up into the Valley towards SALKANTAY 6264 m. Don't get confused as the trek only passed ABRA SALKANTAY 4629 m. From SORAYPAMPA there are actually two treks up to 4150 from where it gets a bit steeper up to SOROCHOCHA 4400 m. One way is along the river to your left and the other one is to your right. This one is a bit wider and after a few kilometers the get back together. We were first following the right trek and found a nice wild camping spot just on its left side past the last huts in SORAYPAMPA. Once you have passed those last huts which are some kind of hotel. Then  risk to explore the steep part to our left. There are some flat plateaus and you are going to find a nice spot for a small tent. For water you have to run down to the river or you brought enough for the night. Filter the water from the river, as there are animals in the riverbed and on the hillside. Our spot for the night had a great view on SALKANTAY the middle of nowhere. Back in the days, the incas would bring offerings to SALKANTAY to ask for good weather and fertility. 

<<DAY 2>>

UP UP UP DOWN DOWN DOWN

From our camp we hiked back up to the trek and then even further up. One hour passed and we reached 4150. Then we were going step. Many locals passed us that morning. Some with horses and some without. As if they would go to work. You will again find 2 ways after a while, the right walkway is easier and not as steep as the one to our left. The one to our left is a bit wider. On this part of our trek we many other groups with big bags. So we were't the only ones. The weather in the morning was cloudy but not rainy. Approaching  the top it got more cloudy, rainy and cold. We were resting every 10 minutes. for a couple of breaths. The way from our camp up to the peak at 4629 m took us roughly 4 h.

Unfortunately we did't see SALKANTAY. We only rested shortly at the top, took some pictures and then began to hike back down into the next valley. Oh...yes here is a picture from the top.

TOP to BOTTOM, hiking down from 4629 to CHAULLAY at 2900 where we wanted to spend the night. This is a lot. 1729 meters of altitude in half a day. Our feet, knees, backs etc...had to suffer. The hike down is beautiful though. Your can see how the vegetation is changing and all of a sudden you find yourself in dense rainforest. The vegetation is totally different in this valley. You will see. On the way down our bodies wanted to rest, but our minds kept on pushing further. DOWN DOWN DOWN. STEP BY STEP. TICK TACK TICK TACK...

Arriving in CHAULLAY. Our first impression...OUFF so many people and organized hiking groups. No way we are going to stay there!

So we asked for a basic campsite and we had to walk a bit further. First down, cross the river, walk up and down into the small little village to your right (when you come out of the valley) the first corner store offers camping for 5 S. per person. They have a cold shower, shelter, table and running water. Apart from us there was another couple. Thus it was quiet and peaceful. At the end of the day we could barely walk and we slept amazing! 

<<DAY 3>>

JUST ANOTHER KILOMETER

We thought that we just had left the hardest day behind and from now on it is going to be more relaxing. No. This was not the case for us.

We hiked another 30 km from CHAULLAY, 2900 to SANTA THERESA, 1550 on this day because we didn't want to take the bus from LUCHABAMBA, 2000 to SANTA THERESA. The hike is worth it though. The first Part Chaullay - Luchabamba is along the river and the view in the valley is spectacular. From Luchabamba - Santa Theresa we were hiking along banana and cafe plantations.  You will also meet avocado and lemon trees on the way. There was nobody else on this way. Except cars, busses and some locals. 

After a another long day of hiking we arrived in Santa Theresa and decided to spend the night at the local campsite called "LA HACIENDA". 

At 19:00 pm we regretted our decision due to some cheap and shitty disco sound coming from the restaurant at the campsite. Damn organized hiking groups. So we ended our day with some noise. 

<<DAY 4>>

Almost there...

The next day in the morning our legs and feet were hurting so much so we took a collectivo and skipped 12 km of hiking from Santa Theresa to Hydroelectrica, 1800. Collectivos are a very effective way to get around there in the area of CUSCO. Cars are running up and down the roads and you just hop on and off. Cheap, safe and effective. In Hydroelectrica we hiked along the railway and "rio vilcanota" to Aquas Calientes, 2000. The distance is roughly 12 km and it took us 3 hours. On the way we discovered many small restaurants with camping. If we would have known that, we would have taken a collectivo the day before and stayed the night on one of the campsites. The other option is to take the train (peru rail). But the hike is so stunning. You can see the ruins of Machu Picchu up on the mountain on the way. If your have no serious injury then hike! It is just magical to be on the ancient ways of the incas. Even though Machu Picchu was accessed from walkways higher up. If you pay attention you can see tiny walkways on steep cliffs which are overgrown by plants. But on a steep cliff where is one single line with plants. That is definitely an ancient Inca walkway. Mostly they are half a meter wide. 

At noon we arrived in Aquas Calientes (picture above) and were so happy. We dropped our stuff at the hotel (plenty of options) and went to the local market to get a juice, soup and rice with lentils and vegetables. Like at all local markets (mercado) they serve fresh juices, delicious local food that is very cheap 5-8 Soles. In Aquas Calientes everything is much more expensive (+40 %)  than in the sacred valley for example. Why? Because it is touristic and they have to bring everything there. 

<<DAY 5>>

Machu Picchu and Mountain 

Again, we did't take the bus up to the entrance of the ruins (Cidadel) we hiked there from Aquas Calientes. We left the hotel at 06:00 am and reached the entrance at 07:30 am. We were slow and it was raining. We almost thought it doesn't make sense to hike up the Machu Picchu mountain, 3000. But we had a conversation with tony, a guy who worked for the "ministerio de cultura". He recommended us to hike up (steep stairs, 1h) and that the fog will clear at 11:00-12:00. And so it happened. On our way down we had a breathtaking view over the ruins. It was definitely worth it. We just had done another 1000 meters of altitude in 2,5 h. We passed through the impressive ruins and in the afternoon 14:00 we made our way back to Aquas Calientes to have lunch at the local market. 

<<DAY 6>>

BACK TO THE SACRED VALLEY

Walking back to Hydroelectrica was easy and fast. On the way back a guy called "JUNG" sold tickets back to Cusco for 30 Soles. He also runs a restaurant, where we hung out a bit. We arranged a ticket for 25 Soles per person back to Pisac, which is about 45 min before Cusco. What we didn't know, that the bus was not passing Pisac. So Jung wasn't really honest with us. The bus left at 14:30 pm at Hydroelectrica and we had to get off the bus in Urubamba. From there the bus took the route over Chinchero to Cucso. So we had to take a Taxi (30 Soles) at 20:00 pm to get back to Pisac. Which was a bit annoying. The train back might be a bit faster and more comfortable, but $$$.

Finally we arrived back in Pisac for the night. What a trip.

We are going to update a few more details within the next weeks. If you have any questions feel free...

Tina & Adrian